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Update: Printed parts for Voron

printed parts Voron 3D Printer Voron

As you can see on a previous post on the spanish comments, there is a comment that said that the use of PLA for Voron´s printed parts is not recommended. And as I told to the user, here is my update on this post

So, do you recommend the use of PLA for printed parts?

If you are going to put the cabinet closed, my advice is NOT using PLA for printed parts, instead the use of Ingeo 870. The reason in that inside the cabinet with the heated bed on, and the nozzle at more than 200º C, the temperature is too high and PLA will melt.

If you have the cabinet open (like I do), I don´t recommend the use of PLA, but is less dramatic. In fact I currently have my parts printed on PLA. But I am goingo to order a new set of parts made of ABS.

What material do you recommend?

As the printer´s creators said, the best performance is reached by using ABS or ABS +, unless due to the hicg temperature inside the cabinet there are some problems too with the use of ABS.

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Voron Electronics Setup (I)

3D Printer Voron

What electronics has been used?

For the Voron there are two electronics options supported by the community, RAMPS plus Raspberry using Klipper as firmware, and the other one is Duet with its expansion (Duex)

I take the Duet by some reasons:

  • I knew the board
  • Integrated drivers are awesome
  • Is very easy to changes thing on the fly without need of compile a new firmware.
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Marlin´s linear advance – Step by step

3D Printer Marlin

Recently I have read a lot about this feature of Marlin, Linear Advance, so I am going to show you what I have learnt some days ago.

What linear advance is?

Is a very interesting feature of Marlin, that maintain constant the pressure inside the nozzle.

Ok, and what is the meaning of that?

As the pressure is constant, the change of speed during the printing does not affect to the quality of it, so the critical areas are pinted better. You will see a huge difference, specially on the corners.

Another good thing, is that you have well configured this feature, the jerk is not important if you use Marlin 1.1.x, and you can print faster withour loosing quality on your prints.

The last advantage is that the dimensional accuracy is increased a lot. Continue reading

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Remote Control for ANET E-10 – Octoprint – Part I

Octoprint - Principal 3D Printer Anet E-10 Improvements

Currently we are out of home the most part of the time, and I became to investigate how to control the printer remotely, and the best option for me is Octoprint.

What do I need?

The first thing is to have an internet connection at home 🙂

Another thing that you need id aRaspberry Pi, because we will install Octoprint on it, another good thing is to buy a camera to receive visual information from the printer. Continue reading

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Improvement package for Anet E-10: X axis and original E3D

Mejora Anet Eje X 3D Printer 3D scanner Improvements

You can see each improvement below this line:

X axis improvement

I think that this is an essential improvement, because is a two in one improvement. You have a more stable x axis structure, and you change the stock carriage.

You can download the STL files here, and has been made by a partner on Anet E-10 telegram group. He takes in consideration all our suggestions, one example, is to design the right holder with holes, that is very useful if you have a dipstick longer than the recommended one.

You can see the result here:

Mejora Anet Eje X

To mount this improvement on your printer you need:

  • 8 mm dispticks with a length of 334 mm (I had dipsticks of 355 mm)
  • Igus linear rods, this kind of rods have two advantages comparing with ball bearing rods, the first one is the noise and the second one is that Igus rods are self lubricated.
  • Two M4 screw of 6,50 mm lenght and two T-nuts
  • GT2 Timing Belt of 80 cm lenght.
  • One long M4 screw for the Z axis endstop.
  • One long M3 screw for the X axis belt tensioner and two more to fix the hotend to the new carriage, you also need two nuts.
  • Print the pieces of the design

Very important: The pieces are designed to use an E3D of 62 mm lenght, if you use anothe one, the layer fan could not make its work properly.

You can see bellow a calibration cube:

Cubo Anet Eje X

Original E3D v6 full metal

I have bought the hotend o a massive purchase organised on SpainLabs

I also bought a hardened steel nozzle, bout the price of it is very expensive.

When you mount it, you can feel the quality of its components. There are some details that I  love:

  • Molex connectors fot the fan and the thermistor, that allow a quick replace in case of issue.
  • Thermistor cartridge, is very good to forget the scare to put the thermistor out of place in the middle of a print.
  • PTFE clip holder, say goodbye to the neumatic plugs that are broken easily.

 

Anet E3d

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